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When curating a list of London’s finest eateries, one might expect familiar award-winning venues. However, nestled high among these food giants is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

The little Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The honour has made the family totally surprised.

“I am utterly surprised,” states a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their small place securing such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the fare, and this establishment more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary achievement.